In my favourite photo of my sister and me as kids, she is holding a cute baby monkey in her arms. Another sits on my shoulder. Fast forward 30 years and once again there is a monkey on my shoulder. This time, I am trying to feed six-month-old orphan Bridget (named after Bridget Jones) her bottle of milk. But Bridget is not interested in the milk. She is more interested in pulling my hair. Tepid milk dribbles down my neck and then, warm urine too. 1
This May, I "volunteered" for three weeks at the Caraya Project in Cordoba province, Argentina. Carayas, or black howler monkeys, live in family groups in the rainforests of Latin America. The project aims to rescue and rehabilitate ex-pets and zoo specimens, with the ultimate objective of returning the animals to the wild. Seven groups of rehabilitated carayas live free in the woods on the isolated 350-hectare (860-acre) site north-west of Buenos Aires. 2 The remainder live in cages while they are rehabilitated. The site is not their true habitat. The trees here are mainly fast-growing conifers and non-native to Argentina and it is bloody cold too. 3
Hunting for the pet trade and loss of habitat (to make way for soya production) are two of the threats faced in the wild by the caraya. 4 On day five, although I can barely speak Spanish, I am asked to take some visitors to see a rehabilitated group. They watch as the monkeys swing and fly through the trees. It's a fantastic sight and the tourists are very enthusiastic. They are also interested in me – how I managed to end up here on a monkey reserve in the middle of nowhere. 5 My three weeks are spent feeding, cleaning and observing. As a monkey novice, the babies are the least risky for me to handle. Even when they bite, it rarely hurts. The baby orphans are like naughty toddlers. 6 I loved getting close to these amazing creatures. Three weeks fly past and I am sad to leave the wild landscape, the other volunteers, the Argentinians who patiently tolerate my attempts at Spanish, and, of course, the monkeys. 7 Spanish is an advantage but the only requirements are to be physically able and available for at least three weeks.
A charge (I paid €450) is made for accommodation (it's basic), food (yours and the monkeys) and goes towards funding the purchase of a new home in the rainforest near Paraguay. It is pricey but these monkeys are the business. The Guardian
A These issues are discussed on educational tours given to tourists who visit the project.
B Demanding, but great fun.
C It may not sound like it but I am having one of the best experiences of my life.
D The project welcomes volunteers from all over the world.
E Reminds me of Scotland.
F The project does its best to protect itself.
G They spend their days foraging, sunbathing and playing
H One man asks if I'm studying monkeys or the Argentinans
